We started this day with two options:
So, we went into the decision making process with the mindset to avoid things we did not like, completely ignorant to the fact that our choice was about to take us through one of the most amazing places of our trip. In short, we chose the 'mountain' path because we: hate the tourist buses, had already seen the coast for the last few days, and did not want to add more miles; even if the alternate meant more climbing. As we left Doolin we cut through, what has become to us, pretty standard Irish countryside. Grass, hills, grass, and things eating the grass. Pretty and always appreciated in alternate to tour buses on tinny roads. As we road what felt like a standard day, we slowly climbed up ~600 feet; we were all unaware of this up to the point in which the scenery all changed rapidly within a few kilometers. Rolling grass fields gave way to forest on top of fluid highlands. The ascent was so gradual we were in it and done with it before we had realized we had already completed our first climb of the day. As we stood on top of this point, the change in scenery was refreshing as we looked out over the landscape. The smells and sights were fresh, crisp, and alive; very different from the salty bite of the coast. With the moral boost of completing your first climb of the day in ignorance, we sallied forth with a wonderful descent into this new setting. As we road, we started seeing more signs of change and the landscape to come. The fields began to become speckled with stone and the rolling hills around us became more sharp, exposing the rocky frame underneath. As we approached and rounded a large rock wall, we entered what Skye described as 'it is like we just walked through the wardrobe into Narnia'. The pictures and words won't do this setting justice. We were in a grass filled flat that was surrounded on both sides by sharp rock cliffs. The setting was remote with no noise except for the animals grazing the lush grass blanketed ground between the strong natural stone structures. I have never much understood the saying 'it was like time stood still'. I guess it is because I don't have the sensation. This moment was the closest I have felt to it as the three of us stopped riding in the middle of this landscape and simply looked around. As I look through our photos of the area, I realize they do not capture but a fraction of what it looked and felt like. This seems just, as it emphasizes the experience of the journey over the stories and pictures we can share of it. Through this geological cut, we entered into our lowest but steepest climb of the day topping out at a 20% and averaging 15% grade. I consider 10% steep. This thing was a monster. We literally had to climb out of the beauty we were in. At the top, we rested and recovered, giving us the opportunity to meet and talk to a local cyclist on his long Sunday ride. He exclaimed short of breath, 'How on Earth did you get up that with all that stuff!' We responded, 'With many stops!' - Skye is, justifiably, a proponent of the 'Granny Stop' (Erin gets the kudos for this intelligent advice). After a short chat we were rewarded with a drop into a small village to enjoy a meal at the one pub. From there we had our last climb of the day. It was the highest point of the day, but with much more manageable grades. From this point we were able to look out over 'The Burren'; a 250 km^2 karst region formed mainly of limestone. I encourage all to go check out the wiki page linked here - The Burren, as it will give you an idea of the setting we were in. From this point, the rest of the day was a descent back down to the coast. The drop through the Burren was exhilarating as we passed through the many bio-mes that this unique area is home to. After a few stops, we were out and back on a busy N rode. With the tour buses back and in force, the majesty of the day seemed far away. Soon dad called it and said, 'Next B&B we see is home for the night'. There were no objections. We settled in and ate a poor mans dinner from our stockpile of bread, cheese, and sauces of sorts; we were not about to get back out on that road to find food! With the promise of a full Irish breakfast the next morning, we all settled in comfortably for the end of our day. -Charlie
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We are still alive, and still in Ireland.
After our morning tea time, we went straight to the ferry to go to Inis Oirr of the Aran Islands. -Inis Oirr, the smallest of the three islands, limestone pavement covers the land and there are also stone walls everywhere. As we venture along we stop to see the small historical sights. -such as O'Brien's fort, Saint Gobnait's Church, Saint Caomhan's Church, and the ship wreck of the Plassey. We get back on the ferry and have a (surprise) tour of the Cliffs of Moher. Back at camp we drink wine, and eat some food before a long night of music. Charlie and I go to get our festival tickets, wristbands, schedule, and beer mugs. The first band starts at six, and by this point it was right after five. Into the event we go. The shows were amazing. I have gone to many bluegrass/folk events in the states but have never experienced anything like the traditional Irish folk music. I had never seen the instruments they were playing. -Uilleann Pipes -Tara Howley & Friends were the first band at the festival and she solos the pipes in the video linked. (Click on Uilleann Pipes) -Concertina - solo of unknown playing the concertina. I encourage you to look at more videos because this is just the first one I came across. -Bodhrán - Irish frame drum (one of my favorites thus far) - solo by Josselin Fournel. One of the bands that Charlie and I really enjoyed are called MyFellow Sponges. (Click on their name to watch their most recent upload) Thanks for tuning in. -Skye We decided to take a day (sort of) off. There was much discussion of options..and the two top candidates of things to do included a hike along the cliffs leading to Moher and riding a boat to some nearby islands. We decided to do the hike and skip the boat. After the hike we were going to break camp and head out. We started the hike just outside of Doolin (rode bike to trail-head) - no real cliffs there. The bulk of visitors ride buses to the entry point located near the center of the cliffs.
We walked along fields full of the most alert and happy seeming cows and horses, with the ocean directly on the other side. We went up and up and up the cliff formed as we went...Right next to us..waves of crystal clear dark blue water bashing the rocks below. It got terrifically high the further we went. When we could see the tower and the hordes we turned around. After we made our way back, we were breaking down the camp and Skye overheard people talking politics. Everybody wants to talk about Trump..I could scream. However in the middle of this overheard conversation it was revealed that the Doolin folk festival started the next day, right across the street from the campground! We stopped breaking down the camp and paid for another day. During the course of this trip, many good things have happened. We have met many sweet and friendly fun-loving locals. Had many cherish-able experiences..all because of Charlie Shoemaker’s undeniable ability to follow through, his aggressive good cheer, his eagerness to meet new people, and his flexibility. What a star! Skye brings a fun-loving sweetness, an alertness to social situations, and a completeness to the tandem. They are a team..1+1 is way more than 2 with them. I am having fun. MARK Ps. I miss you, Joyce. Quick last breakfast with Mom - she was off to catch a bus around 8. By Mom! Love you!
The usual morning wind up - this involves trying to upload as many good pictures as possible, try and get a blog posted, 2 of the 3 S's (not currently shaving), and then pack the bags and load them up onto bike. Ready to roll! Doolin, the small village North of the Cliffs of Moher, is the destination. We planned to head back into town to do some quick things we remembered about all requiring the bike shop. We then got the best directions ever to get us out of the 1-way street maze of Ennis. Out of town and on the road! Notes of the ride: - It was hot...one of the hottest days...especially early in the ride - It was small up and downs with 2 larger climbs near the end of the day. - The first of the two climbs opened us up to the cool ocean breeze....ahhhhh, this is why we do this craziness! The contrast of all the senses! - It finished with an epic view down into Doolin.....ahhhhh...... Now home away from home preparation: - Chose between 3 camping options (over a pint of course - thanks Los!) and unloaded gear/set up camp - Figured out where grocery was - back up the darn hill that required. -_- - Used the trip up the hill to do a loop and find the entrance of the Moher trail - Back to camp for some food!!!! (Dad may tell all of his inadequacies but he ALWAYS fails to point out his abilities. One of these is ingredient combination, especially simple ones, into yumminess!) - Relaxing evening with wonderful coastal sunset - strange effect with sun through clouds...we thought it was the moon at first it was so dim. Perfect period to the day. -Sleep -Charlie This day marked Moms final day in Ireland. The day was reserved to get her gear ready for travel, shed some of the groups stuff we thought was unnecessary into her travel bag, and return her bike. Everyone, besides mom, had seen very little of Ennis during our first visit; she planned to show us around with our day off. Ennis was a wonderful town to explore with its tight, winding streets full of activity. The day was relaxed and un-rushed; highlighted by the fact that we got to use our Phase 10 cards for the first time - getting almost all the way through a game (enjoying a few pints along the way - thanks Pedro!).
After a dinner in town we all walked back to our B&B (used on our first visit). We were incredibly excited to be back to see of our wonderful host Moura. This accentuated the full circle we had done in 3 weeks time. This last day made a wonderful conclusion for this part of the trip. I am incredibly stoked my mother joined us for these three weeks. She added literally thousands of amazing photos to our 'photo reserve'. These were an invaluable tool to making this blog more 'in life'. [One day we will get the whole portfolio organized and shared.] She was the chief B&B liaison balancing location with cost; we enjoyed being spoiled for these 3 weeks! She was Dad's constant companion; it is always wonderful being able to divide into groups and conquer tasks...especially knowing Dad had someone tough at his back. She was a defining characteristic of the trip; every little thing influences a trip like this so without her who knows what stories, adventures, and sites we would have missed. Thanks for coming Mom and can't wait to see you in 2.75 months! -Charlie Joyce's last travel day in Ireland.
Bed and breakfast just north of Bunratty. Up, pack up, roll to town. Bunratty castle and recreated town. All of the historical attractions we have seen so far have been first class. History: 12 century. Built at a crossroads intersecting competing interests. The Normans, the O'Briens, the Fitzgeralds. Atrocities galore,. Including being drawn by two horses, inquisitions for heresy, burning at the stake...Lovely! The castle is a fortified house, much larger than we have yet seen, but of similar construction. The beauty of visiting these places is imagining life in them..bet it stunk. Around the castle itself they have reconstructed an ancient town with associated businesses…blacksmith, baker, mills etc. Very interesting. Furthher up the hill is other exhibits ..like a 19 century town,. Displays of byzantine farm equipment (steam engine powering a turnip slicer). All lots of fun. Load up and roll to Ennis..about 30 km of rolling hills, with a bike lane most of the way. Intersections here are largely controlled by traffic circles. This is very efficient but relies on a form of controlled chaos. The trick with a bicycle is to act like a car. The only caveat there is that speed and acceleration available to the cyclist is very different from a car.. The bob trailers, flashing lights , the tandem itself and Charlie and Skye's flying hair make us easy to spot. Charlie is an aggressive rider, which works well in this situation . Another b&b...day off in Ennis tomorrow. Mark. Plan: To spend the morning exploring the site rich area of Loch Gur. To get to Limerick mid-day and do a ride through the town to see it. Stop in Bunratty where we would be able to see the castle and 'folk village' the next morning.
We began our day riding back the way we came the day before so we could round the lake towards the Lough Gur Heritage Center. On the way we passed and saw several sites; a stone church ruin, an ancient burial tomb/wedge, and a castle among others. The area was very rich in history as the land and location were ideal; the area was highly settled over the centuries. At the heritage center, there was a multitude of paths and green space which we enjoyed for the entirety of the morning. After a quick lunch we hit the road to Limerick. The ride was a blast; we had a tail wind and did very little elevation gain on the rolling hills down into Limerick. Mom was the most thrilled for the fun, fast ride. In Limerick we stopped for a quick pint and then road the Shannon river to see some of the town. The river walkways and bike paths were well done. To Bunratty we went with a B&B reserved. The ride was a little more uphill then earlier in the day, but way less then what we had become accustom to. Soon we were settled in ready to enjoy a sunny afternoon. We went down to the town to scout out the castle for the next morning as well as get a bite to eat. We ate at the Creamery which had a great atmosphere in an old stone creamery full of old thing-a-ma-doo-hikies including an old boiler that they had built the bar around. Full bellies and a short ride home we were ready for some R&R. -Charlie This was the day for me to meet a passel of sweet, amazing people. First we enjoyed a yummy Bfast & lovely conversation with Pat who embodied the warmth & charm that we've experienced over & over in Ireland. Then we headed on an N road & made our fastest time so far. We went through several villages with ruins, beautiful churches & even saw a bride and her wedding party at the entrance of one.
Charlie spied a bike store in a classic old Irish building. (Mark & Charlie can speak to that-all the bike stores are amazing in their on way) Outside, a customer was admiring the tandem bike, struck up a conversation & once again, like so many other folks have been, was only too glad to help. For you see, we were in the middle of the "June bank holiday weekend" (the Irish have bank holidays spaced similar to our Mon. off holiday weekends like Memorial Day) & therefore our attempt at finding a camping area or B&B had come to naught. Brendan offered his yard or home, even though he was getting ready for a Charity Cycle ride that evening that his own organization, which supports families of critically ill children, was sponsoring. He also told me about a pub near our destination & when we arrived, the waitress, with the help of a customer found us Grange Farm House B&B just up the road. The food was fabulous too. On the way, we passed The Great Stone Circle of Grange, an amazing circle of 113 large stones up against a circular berm dating back to thousands of years BC (supposedly the earliest discovered circle of stone). As we were leaving, I had heard the cattle lowing across the street & the farmer called me over. Tim was also the caretaker of the area and told us about a smaller stone circle & very large standing stone (used as a highway marker) in the next field. He, like so many folks we had met, had a child in the states in Albany NY. He had us sign his guest book & before we left gave me a postcard with his address with the request for an Albany GA postcard in return. A short way, but up a steep hill, we met Elizabeth at the B&B who offered us tea & we enjoyed yet another warm conversation with she and her husband. I think the days here just can't get any better, but each one has it's own delightful surprises. -Joyce Today
-We woke up for the last time in Coolyduff. (SHOUTOUT: Thank you Phil, Ros, and Bobby for letting us camp, playing loads of badminton, the good music, and sharing your pups!) -When Charlie and I got onto the tandem we could feel something strange. It did not sound good. We were concerned it could be a major mechanical issue from the 'grinding' sensation -Luckily, the timing chain was binding up (which is a comparatively minor issue) -We planned to make it to Mallow before addressing the problem. -Once we made it to Mallow, we found a pub and Charlie flipped the bike over and started to fix the problem. -We purchased a few beers and lunch. -After the bike adjustments, we got back on the bikes and headed to a B&B that Joyce booked. -This was the first B&B that we had a male host, his name is Pat. -Charlie worked on the Website some. Sleep. -Skye Woke up at the most excellent, idyllic camping area at the house of Phil and Ros.
Ros’ dog was doing his usual rounds, checking the area. I think he forgot we were there and barked at the tent...then came over all apologetic. What a hoot. I laid there for a little while more, listening to the zillion kinds of bird sounds, including the happy coos from the nearby chicken coop. Then inside to enjoy a little time with our excellent hosts. Cork... Urban feel but rode bike on bike trail and lanes from outskirts to city center. English market with loads of fresh food and other Irish items. The ride there was bicycle heaven for an urban setting. Charlie had located bike trails through parks for most of the way. On the city streets we shared a big lane with largely nonexistent buses. Joyce wanted to go to Blarney Castle. Rode significant distance in rush hour traffic to Blarney destination, had an hour and a half to see the place, since closing time loomed. Turns out when you do it this way you almost have the place to yourself and the ride back is pain free, cause everybody is home eating. I got over my annoyance with the hairy ride there quickly. Blarney castle is a major tourist destination, but it is absolutely gorgeous without any tourists. Some of the areas seemed a little “contrived”, but the buildings and gardens were awesome. Back to camper heaven for the night at Phil's house. As we arrived, there was a rousing game of badminton being played on the back lawn, nobody keeping score. Easy dinner of fruit, cheese, bread and olive oil or peanut butter...then after a little more pleasant talk with our new friends off to bed..tomorrow the wheels are rolling again. P.S. our hosts were some interesting and awesome characters. -Mark |