After our 3 day break in Killarney, it was back to "work". We had done our 1st load of laundry the day before (lots of hand washing), so packed it all up & headed out past the mountains & forest we had ridden through the previous days. Traveled on an "N" road which is a highway with pull off lanes that are perfect for cyclists. Later it turned into 2 lanes up a long slow hill with a more narrow edge. We did find a few "L" roads that generally paralleled the highway, are smaller, less heavily traveled & wind through farmland & small villages. Some of these are designated as specific cycle routes too which of coarse we love . We arrived in Macroom, which despite having a castle, seemed much more of a work a day locale. The end of the day traffic was bumper to bumper & more harrowing than we'd experienced before. We were relieved to see a nice walking path over the river. We found Penns Pub which only had a few patrons. After a few minutes, we had a new bartender who was quite friendly & informative. We had found a B&B online (all the pubs have WiFi) & she approved of our choice. She commiserated with us about the traffic and discussed the local economy a bit. The pub used to have a restaurant & hostel but the area had fallen on harder times. I also figured out that it was Penns bar because William Penn's (Pennsylvania) brother was from there. We then headed to Fountain House B&B on a lovely lake, met Breda & her 3 youngest elementary age boys, Mark, Simon & David. She offered to do laundry & since we're apparently in an Irish heat wave (highs almost 70), that was much appreciated. She also had a 7 month old puppy, a white Golden Retriever who we all loved on.